Dealings with a Second Hand Clothing Pimp in Kiev
Sep02

Dealings with a Second Hand Clothing Pimp in Kiev

My grandfather, for the sweet man that he was, had an extremely thrifty side: he loved to haggle. It was a part of his upbringing in Ukraine. Get something at cost or lower, if at all possible. So, when I was invited to visit one of Kiev’s largest second-hand flea markets to find a jacket, I was overjoyed to give my bartering chops a go and make my grandfather proud. What gems would we unearth in the second hand wonders of Kiev? I envisioned myself strutting around Nashville in a large fur coat and ushanka that I’d score for $5. We stepped off the subway and into second-hand heaven: an endless sea of countless shirts, jeans, jackets, belts, shoes, bathing suits, and even wet suits spilling out.   The options were unlimited. We finally picked our store, in search of a jacket that had both personality and practicality to suit Alex’s needs for his upcoming trip to Finland. (It took us longer than it should’ve to talk ourselves out of going through the long rows of 90’s-style leather jackets.) We finally found the winner that possessed functionality and a little bit of color. As Alex put it on, a pretty young girl sporting a fanny pack approached us. I’d seen similar young girls manning the other stores and found it to be strange. They were essentially attractive shepherds, watching over the used merchandise. “Can’t I just hold onto this and look around?” Alex muttered. The girl was now hovering right next to us. It was time to haggle. We asked how much in broken Russian. She whipped out her cell phone, opened the calculator app, and handed the phone to me. She wanted us to give the starting price. “10 hryvnia?” I suggested. My cheapness knows no bounds, even when dealing with a currency that is worth about 1/8th of my own. “I don’t want to insult her,” said Alex sensibly. We settled at 50 griven. I handed the phone back to the girl. The girl laughed and shook her head. “Ni, ni!” She typed in 100. Now this is real bartering, even if done through a sad cell phone calculator, I thought to myself. We were about to counter-offer at 70 when a slick looking man with dark features and well-fitted jeans approached us. He gave us the once-over and muttered some things to the girl in Russian while giving us disapproving glances. The girl answered with submission and skirted away. He was the Boss, I realized; the Clothing Pimp in charge of all these young girls. When you start asking too many questions and disrupt the process and...

Read More
What DO you pack for 1 month in Ukraine, anyway?
Aug29

What DO you pack for 1 month in Ukraine, anyway?

I’m currently meandering around Ukraine and Germany in an attempt to explore the lands and cultures where my grandparents came from to honor their past and pass on their heritage! As usual, it’s bound to be an adventure with a fair share of misadventures… I’ve been met with a lot of enthusiasm and support when I explain to friends and family of the upcoming Motherland Tour and the hunt for learning more about the culture my grandparents came from (thanks, y’all!). Then there’s the occasional “You’re doing what?!”  that I try to let roll off my shoulders but can’t help but wonder for a split second if the whole thing is actually crazy.  When I started packing for this I finally accepted that I am not a backpacker and I should stop pretending to be. After spending 3 months on the road for work, I got into a groove living out of my small rolling suitcase. It would throw off my packing equilibrium to switch to my awkward toploading-pain-in-the-butt 40L North Face. “Packing for shoulder season is difficult” — my excuse for overpacking. Also trying to learn from past mistakes here… I figure it’ll be nice to only do laundry once a week instead of twice a week when I went overly minimalistic on past trips! Clothing 2 tank tops 2 3/4 length shirts (for autumn) 1 light 3/4 sleeved sweater (for autumn/Orthodox churches) 1 dressy top 1 pair jeans 1 pair leggings 1 black ruffle skirt 2 casual dresses 1 scarf (for covering head in Orthodox churches) undergarments 4 pairs of socks 1 bathing suit rain jacket   Shoes Sandals (kinda dressy) Merrells Flip flops (for shower) Chuck Taylors (that I hastily wore to the airport and am hoping Frankfurt’s banking district won’t judge as I saunter around on my layover)   Electronics Canon T3i (with awesome PVC pipe pistol grip that my dad made! Thanks pop!) 0.45mm wide angle lens Kindle Unlocked iPhone 4 HP Mini Memory cards 1 TB Passport hard drive (I LOVE THIS THING.)   Toiletries Shampoo, Conditioner (full-sized, too much hair to justify travel sized!) Face wash Hair jazz Sunscreen w/ moisturizer Razor Deodorant Wrinkle-release spray   First Aid Kit / Medicine Bug spray Allergy medicine Pepto Bismal / Imodium Alka Seltzer Cold Medicine Advil   Misc Quick dry towel Silk sleepsheet Elastic travel clothesline Passport / Credit cards Notebook Ukraine travel guide & phrasebook   Ancestry Stuff Copies of paperwork: My grandma’s family tree (in German), my grandparents’ certificate of marriage in Wiesbaden, my grandma’s address in Mainz, instructions for their travel to Mainz-Bremhaven-New York City. Screencaps from my grandfather’s trip to Ukraine in 1992  ...

Read More
Announcing the Next Adventure: The Motherland Tour!
Aug09

Announcing the Next Adventure: The Motherland Tour!

  Let’s be honest: Planning a trip rarely pans out when you work in freelance production. The joke in the industry is, “If you want to get work, buy a plane ticket.” There’s always this fear that by being unavailable for work, people will forget about you completely and you’ll never work again. A dear friend recently reminded me that it isn’t true, of course. There rarely is a right time to travel; you have to make it happen. And so, with no immediate prospects, I pulled the trigger…   I’m going to Ukraine. I leave in less than two weeks. I’m just a little terrified. Why Ukraine? The short answer: My grandfather grew up there, and he’s a large part of who I am today. The detailed answer:   I was definitely raised in an American home (my parents ARE from New Jersey after all), but I was exposed to Ukrainian culture on a regular basis. For Christmas Eve, we would eat borscht, pierogis and holobchi; sometimes I’d be forced to wear traditional Ukrainian dress. My grandfather never ceased bragging about his homeland (to the point of driving everyone a little crazy, particularly my German grandmother). He passed away when I was 16, and after college, I took a vested interest in Ukraine and my heritage. I began reading about the intense Russification that Ukraine endured, and my grandfather’s passion made all the more sense. The Rough Itinerary I have a 14 hour layover in Frankfurt, and then I’m arriving in Kiev just in time to celebrate Ukraine’s Independence Day on August 24th. I’ll spend a few days there before making my way to L’viv, the city closest to where my grandfather is from. I’m going to hole up here for a couple of weeks and take my first stab at language classes, hopefully making a weekend trip to the Carpathian Mountains. I must visit the village where my grandfather grew up, but I’ll probably need a guide. And for some reason, I keep envisioning it playing out like this: (Everything is Illuminated is a hilarious and fantastic movie– you should absolutely see it, especially if you’re planning a trip to Ukraine. I may download the soundtrack to play as background music to my own adventure.) After L’viv I have 10 more days to travel around the country before my flight to Germany. I may jettison down to Odessa if I have the mental stamina. Germany I have a 6-day layover in Frankfurt before heading home, which is key in the Motherland Tour as Frankfurt/Wiesbaden is where my grandparents met and married. I’d like to get up to Bremerhaven, as that’s where they sailed from for a new start. And then, back...

Read More